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Router Table II Pages: 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8

Having learned a lesson on my other table, I wanted there to be plenty of bit storage in this table. That would be the emphasis, actually - bits only, with no drawers for other junk. The design of the legs left space on each end and I gave some thought as to how I would use this most efficiently. In the end, I came up with a simple racking system.
I cut strips of wood all the same size and length to fit between the legs:

A 20 degree bevel was cut in a piece of wood to tilt the strips for drilling:

Here, I'm doing 1/2" holes, for 1/2" bits:

The reason for the angle is to keep the bits from falling out if the table vibrates.
The spacing is tighter for 1/4" bits, since the bits are generally smaller in size. There should be ample "finger room" between the bits giving a neat, uncluttered storage system.

The spacing of each strip varies, depending on the bit size, with bigger bits at the bottom. The strips are glued and pinned in place:

The 1/2" side complete. Storage for 67 bits! Should be adequate.

The 1/4" side:

80 bits fit here. Of my future complaints, bit storage should not be one. Notice I notched the strips around the screws that hold the legs on. I want to be able to dismantle this if needed. With the strips in, I can finish painting the inside.


My original plan was to leave these storage compartments open, figuring doors would be more of a nuisance than anything else. Then I got to thinking about dust and how it would collect inside and how it would be nice to have doors to clean up the appearance and potentially use for more storage - wrenches and other smaller things could be hung on the inside. To avoid painting, I would use 1/2" melamine and band it. Here I've cut the door panels to size, leaving them a little wide:

The edge that the hinges go on is beveled slightly, so as not to bind when closed. I band this this edge and trim off the excess.

The hinges are no-mortise type, left over from a wooden shutter project:

I figure three are overkill but better to be stronger to give the assembly more durability.

The door is hung to test the fit:

Good on the top and bottom, I mark the width. It is then removed and cut. The top, bottom and edge are banded and the door is reinstalled.

A magnetic catch holds it shut:

A great fit.

For pulls, I made these. Talked about in some detail in this blog entry. Not my usual style, but they look ok and the price was right:

Starting to take shape. Hand wheels and locking lever are painted, the cabinet is complete. The top is bolted on and I've started work on the fence - the part attached to the top on the right is the guide rail for the fence.

Here's a short video of the table in action:

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Pages: 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8

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